Of Rice and Men
Grains are the cornerstone of civilization. Their domestication and cultivation allowed us to abandon the nomadic hunter-gatherer lifestyle, setting down roots and forging the beginning of social living. The three grains providing this foundation are maize (corn), wheat, and rice, the latter of which is the primary food staple for more than half of the global population.
The perception of rice as boring and bland is unjustified. Plain white rice is like a bass player in a band: it goes unrecognized until it is not there. Like a good bass line, the simplicity complements the aggressive, in-your-face lead. Red beans without rice just fall flat. The versatility of rice is that it can be that plain accompaniment to flavorful or spicy components, or it can be the star as in paella, biryani, or risotto. Rice can be the glue that brings a dish together with Polish golabki (stuffed cabbage) or Greek dolmades.
Rice and beans are a dietary staple for a large portion of the globe. Often derided as poor people’s food, the combination of beans and rice forms a complete chain of proteins and amino acids essential for nutritional wellbeing. Red beans and rice is a Louisiana creole staple traditionally served on Mondays, which was laundry day. Before washing machines, laundry was back-breaking labor-intensive work. The beans could simmer all day, creating a rich flavorful dish. In hard times, beans and rice are economical; a solitary ham hock or sausage link ratchets up the flavor without the meat being the central component.
I recently went on a trip to Costa Rica where I was introduced to gallo pinto, the national dish, served as a breakfast staple with eggs, tortillas, avocado, plantains, and Turrialba, a local cheese. In most regions black beans are often used; in Guanacaste where I was visiting, red beans are more prevalent. This staple quickly became a highlight of my meals.
Not all rice is the same. There are hundreds of different rice varieties that fall into three categories: short, medium, and long grain varieties. Long grain rice produces light, fluffy, separate grains of rice and is excellent for pilafs and the Persian/Indian biryani; basmati and jasmine are two examples of long grain rice. Medium grain rice is starchier and is often used in the southern European classics paella and risotto. Short grain rice is stickier and is commonly found in Asian cuisines and used for sushi, poke bowls, and rice balls.
Paella originated in Valencia, Spain, most likely introduced by the Moors. The name paella refers to the pan used in cooking the rice, not to the rice itself. Paella is traditionally cooked over an open fire. The ingredients vary region to region, but there are two key rules to paella: use Spanish saffron, and once you add the stock, don’t stir it. The crunchy brown crust that forms on the bottom of the pan is the hallmark of a great paella. Vialone nano is the traditional medium grain rice used in paella.
Risotto, on the other hand, requires intense stirring and attention. Traditionally made with Arborio or carnaroli rice, risotto should be made and then eaten immediately. The keys to great risotto are using boiling stock and adding a little at a time, stirring frequently to release the starches, creating the famously creamy texture. Although it varies from region to region, the stirring and butter and cheese create the consistency, not adding cream to the dish.
This issue, go with the grain with these classic rice dishes: Gallo Pinto, Red Beans and Rice with Andouille Sausage, Paella Valencia, and Chicken Biryani.
Recipes from this issue
