Andrea Trattoria Italiana
Over the nearly 10 years that I’ve been reviewing restaurants for this magazine, there have been some absolutely exquisite meals and equally exquisite service and ambiance. I’m happy to report that my recent visit to Andrea Trattoria Italiana on Bank Street was another such experience.
While we stood outside with others waiting to be seated, a slight drizzle fell. The hostess quickly sat each of the parties, and not one single person melted. My dining companions were two friends, both discriminating food lovers whom I call George and Gracie. They’re excellent chefs in their own rights, having owned a restaurant in Wayne, Pennsylvania, and Gracie is the daughter of very fine Italian cooks. I’ve seen the recipes and the meals, and she has some serious culinary DNA.
We were led to our table in one of the four dining areas, that include the smaller area fronting Bank Street, the main dining room, and some al fresco dining on the front patio. Our seating just beyond the main dining room was banquette seating for two and comfy chairs for the others of us. Our waiters, Team Vlad and Arianna, appeared instantly, setting up our hightop, turning on the cool little older-person-friendly table lamp, pouring our waters, basically situating all the things.
Having studied their online menus well before our reservation, we all pretty much decided on our choices, yet we stared at the menus and stared some more. Arianna recited the specials, yet we were not swayed. It’s a three-course traditional menu, derived from Owner/Chef Andrea Covino, himself a native of Naples, Italy. His approach is simple: every dish and component are prepared in-house with the highest quality ingredients.
For my Primi (First Course) I chose the Gnocchi Al Gorgonzola. Holy happysnacks. A generous portion of light-as-a-feather pillows of potato gnocchi bathed in a smooth and sharp gorgonzola sauce and topped with crispy pancetta. I cannot emphasize enough the delicate nature of this dish. Even with many other options, I would order this again. George and Gracie were equally thrilled with their choices. George had the Carpaccio di Polpo (that would be octopus), and Gracie chose the Calamari Fritti. Both dishes, beautifully plated, caused happy noises from these two. There are lots of other choices too, like seared scallops, burrata and parmesan, and pasta dishes as well.
For my Insalate (Salad) Course, I ordered the Rugola E Carciofe. Classic Caesar and Spring Mix with veggies and balsamic were also in the offing, but arugula is my jam. This selection was a delicious mélange of arugula, truffle pecorino cheese, grilled artichokes, and truffle dressing. Again, the delicacy of this salad was amazing with sweetness, peppery arugula, sharp pecorino. Covino is a master.
About Andrea: He was the executive chef at Philly’s Girasole in 1991, then ran the Atlantic City location in the late 90s. He then opened Andrea Trattoria Italiana in Newfield in 2004, another in Sea Isle City in 2005, and in 2020 moved the North Jersey location to Cape May. And for this we are very grateful. We’re also grateful for his wife Lucy Covino. Also a gifted chef, Lucy is the owner of La Dona, the Oaxacan oasis on Carpenters Lane. These days, Lucy runs front-of-the-house while Andrea holds sway in the kitchen. Point of pondering: I’d love to see them create in their kitchen at home and would gladly be a taste-tester.
On to the rest of our delightful meal, for his Secondi (second course, actually third), George had the special, the Bronzino, fileted table-side, with lemon, capers and white wine. So sweet and delicate; George was in heaven. Gracie too, my Italian goddess-friend, was very happy with the Braciola de Manzo, pounded and rolled filet mignon with garlic, parsley, and parmesan cheese, served with house-made tomato sauce on a bed of mashed potatoes.
For my Secondi, I spied the Costoletta Di Manzo, or braised short ribs with carrots, onions, celery, and a red wine reduction with mashed potatoes. It spoke to me—and then it sang to me. The aroma wafted into all of our noses, and we agreed, it was just like the pot roast that our Grammies used to make. Fall-apart short ribs, and the sauce, its parts still intact, form a memorable slurry. Next time, I think I might try the salmon or the Vitello (veal) Milanese, but those short ribs were really special!
For dessert…I’ll have the usual: Crème Brûlée whenever I can. Andrea Trattoria’s arrives in flambé, extinguishing to form the beautiful crust with smooth wonderfulness beneath.
This restaurant is in my top three of all time in the Cape May area. When you go, savor it all—the ambiance, the impeccable and seamless service, the divine fare—and you’ll be happy for the rest of your life. Pinky swear.
