Something Fishy Going On
For a place in close proximity to and nearly completely surrounded by water, there is a paucity of marine diversity on local menus. Scallops, oysters, crab, shrimp, and salmon get enough representation on local tables, but there really are plenty more fish in the sea.
What I enjoy about trying seafood is the range of texture and flavors each different type of fish offers; maybe that’s what scares some people away. I don’t understand people who don’t like seafood. I mean there are thousands of varieties of fish that are unique and even the same species can taste different when they come from different environments.
Meat, especially the type that comes from Orwellian factory farms, taste mostly the same. Chicken is mostly bland and is mainly a vehicle for a good sauce. Beef, while having more depth of flavor than your generic yardbird, is still as monochromatic as Picasso in his blue period. A filet mignon in one restaurant is pretty much the same at the next. Maybe that’s the appeal. I personally prefer more diversity of flavor on my plate. Here are five fish/seafood items that deserve a second chance.
Cod was the backbone of New England’s commerce. It is often relegated to the deep fryers in fish sticks or fish and chips. I was recently introduced to skrei cod. Skrei is a Norwegian cod that appears along the Nordic shores from January to April every year, then disappears. This migratory fish boasts the delicate flavor of other cod with larger, firmer flakes that make it suitable for a multitude of cooking techniques and flavor profiles. The Mediterranean light and bright flavor palette is an excellent place to start with this fish. Pan seared with a stew of chickpeas, tomatoes, and wilted spinach accompanied by a glass of wine would add warmth to a winter evening. Skrei also works well marinated in miso, sake, and red curry coconut milk sauce with noodles, or rice and lightly steamed Shanghai cabbage.
– Polish Proverb
“Fish, to taste right, must swim three times—in water, in butter, and in wine.”
The next choice in fish used to be extremely common in this region and has been credited with helping Washington to win the American Revolution. The word Shad is derived from old English and Gaelic words from herring. For most people the problem with shad is its distinct oily flavor and aroma. It seems the modern American palate prefers that their fish doesn’t taste… ummm, fishy. Shad also has three sets of pin bones making it challenging to clean. The thin filets cook quickly, making it ideal to broil or pan fry. Shad’s unique flavor means it doesn’t need a sauce served with lemon or butter, yet an artisan or herb vinegar, sherry vinegar, or tarragon vinegar would be my top selections.
One of the perks of being a chef with culinary ADD (I am constantly distracted by a new ingredient or flavor) is exploring the latest ingredients. Recently I was perusing my fishmongers’ daily offerings and I loudly exclaimed what the — is triple tail. My sous chef, who had spent some time in the Florida Keys, said “order it—it’s delicious.” Important chefs note here: always trust your sous chef. Flaky, moist, and delicious, this mild whitefish should be on more northern tables. It can be fried, broiled, sautéed and, with a little care, grilled.
My next choice might be controversial to some: swordfish. Due to longline fishing—which killed or harmed other marine life—and overfishing, swordfish in the 80s and 90s were becoming endangered. Due to regulations and sustainability measures the industry has rebounded, and swordfish stocks have been replenished in the North Atlantic. Swordfish also earned the reputation of being high in mercury, but mercury contamination was and is not unique to swordfish. Heavy metal accumulates in larger predatory fish of many species. Select swordfish from medium-sized fish and enjoy in moderation. The meaty texture and mild flavor make it perfect for the grill.
Monkfish is a deep dwelling cold-water fish that may be one of the ugliest and scariest looking fish. It may be the inspiration for tall tales from fishermen of sea monsters. The monkfish has a giant prehistoric looking head that only a mother monkfish could love. In fish markets you never see whole monkfish—just the tails, which are delicious. Its flavor has earned it the sobriquet of poor man’s lobster, which is ironic since until the 20th century, lobster was considered working-class fare, but that is a topic for another day or another column. While it does have the firmness and sweetness of lobster, for me the flavor is more subtle, more of a blend of lobster and scallop with a meaty firm texture. The tails run alongside either side of the backbone and are free from any tiny bones. Being a culinary daredevil, I like the Osso Bucco cut, which cuts across the spine with meaty morsels on each side. Cooking fish whole or bone-in is popular around the world and yields better flavor than boneless filets but is a hard sell to American diners.
As we emerge from our winter comfort food coma, try these five different fish recipes at home: Miso Marinated Skrei Cod with Red Curry Noodles; Shad with Sherry Vinegar and Wilted Greens; Grilled Swordfish with Chorizo Chickpea Stew; Buttermilk Fried Triple Tail with Corn and Crab Gravy and Fried Tomatoes; and Monkfish Osso Bucco with Saffron Pearl Couscous and Tarragon Dijon Cream.
